The plants you cultivate need more than sun and water to thrive. In addition to tender loving care, they need macro- and micronutrients provided in the proper balance. These nutrients occur naturally in soil, but in varying amounts and, in some cases, in varying quality. The appropriate, supplemental application of essential nutrients depends upon what’s present in the soil – and what a particular plant requires.

There generally are two types of nutrients: macro- and micronutrients. Put simply, those considered macronutrients are the elements that plants require in greater quantities than the micronutrients, which, as logic would have it, are those that are required in lesser amounts.

It all seems obvious, but this is why soil testing is critical to determining what’s sufficient, what’s lacking and what needs to be added.
Listed here are the nutrients, along with their basic characteristics or qualities, and general signs of deficiency. This is not intended to be a comprehensive analysis of the nutrients or their effects, but a simple guide to give plant professionals a starting point for further investigation. Soil tests conducted by reliable and reputable labs should be completed prior to application of supplemental nutrients; diagnosis of deficiencies should be confirmed as well. Overapplication of supplemental nutrients can be just as detrimental to plants as deficiency.

Macronutrients

Nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are considered the “primary” nutrients. “Secondary” macronutrients are calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S). Macronutrients are necessary for healthy growth and sustained vigor, but they must be balanced correctly.

The other essentials

We don’t often think of oxygen and moisture as “nutrients.” Without them, of course, plants wouldn’t survive. Structural, or nonmineral, nutrients – carbon (C), hydrogen (H) and oxygen (O) – are obtained from air and water. Each is necessary for the plant to convert into carbohydrates (sugars and starches), which help to build strength in cell walls and to support stems and leaves. Think of these as the most basic plant food.

Micronutrients

Considered “minor” or trace elements, micronutrients include boron (B), chloride (Cl), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), molybdenum (Mo), and zinc (Zn). Many support the functions of macronutrients

This is not intended to be a comprehensive analysis of the nutrients or their effects, but a simple guide to give plant professionals a starting point for further investigation. Soil tests conducted by reliable and reputable labs should be completed prior to application of supplemental nutrients; diagnosis of deficiencies should be confirmed as well. Overapplication of supplemental nutrients can be just as detrimental to plants as deficiency.

Nitrogen

• Essential for plant growth; part of every living cell
• Necessary for chlorophyll synthesis
• Directly responsible for increasing protein content in plants
• Must be present in sufficient amounts to facilitate nutrient uptake

Signs of deficiency:

• Plant is pale green
• Lower leaves may appear yellow to brown
• Symptoms appear first on older leaves, but may then spread throughout the plant

Phosphorus

• Captures and converts sunlight into essential plant compounds
• Stimulates root development
• Promotes improved flower and seed production
• Promotes increased stalk and stem strength

Signs of deficiency:

• Plant may appear dark green, with purple or red hues
• Lower leaves may appear yellow to dark green
• Symptoms appear first on older leaves, but may then spread
  throughout the plant

Potassium

• Enhances enzyme actions, aiding in photosynthesis
• Maintains turgor, reduces water loss
• Increases root growth, improves drought tolerance
• Known as “quality nutrient” for overall effects on general plant quality

Signs of deficiency:

• Leaves appear wilted or scorched
• Edges or spots on leaf are necrotic
• Symptoms appear only on olderleaves

Magnesium

• Captures sun’s energy, facilitating photosynthesis
• Carries phosphorus; is required for better root formation
• Mobile within plant; moving from older to younger tissues

Signs of deficiency:

• Leaf edges appear yellow, but remainder is green
• Symptoms appear only on older leaves

Calcium

• Stimulates root and leaf development
• Affects uptake and activity of other nutrients
• Helps form compounds that compose cell walls, strengthening plant structure
• Balances organic acids; activates plant enzyme systems

Signs of deficiency:

• New leaves appear deformed
• Left edges and tips are necrotic
• Terminal bud appears healthy
• Symptoms appear first on young leaves

Sulfur

• Critical for photosynthesis and winter hardiness
• Appears in every cell; required for synthesis of amino acids and proteins
• Aids in seed production
• Aids in efficient nitrogen fixation in leguminous plants

Signs of deficiency:

• Entire leaf appears yellow
• Yellow coloration may spread toentire plant
• Symptoms appear first on young leaves

Boron

• Helps to improve seed set
• Is a component of cell walls

Signs of deficiency:

• Terminal bud dies
• Leaves appear deformed and/or necrotic
• Symptoms appear first on young leaves

Chloride

• Supports transport of macronutrients throughout plant
• Helps plant acclimate to varying water quantities

Signs of deficiency:

• White, necrotic spots may appear along leaf edges
• Leaf tips may curl or wilt
• Symptoms appear first on young leaves

Copper

• Least mobile of micronutrients
• Necessary for successful chlorophyll formation

Signs of deficiency:

• Plant growth appears stunted
• Leaves discolored, small and deformed
• Terminal bud appears healthy
• Symptoms appear first on young leaves

Iron

• Assists in chlorophyll formation
• Deficiencies display as chlorosis in leaves

Signs of deficiency:

• Yellowing between leaf veins
• Stems do not appear shortened or rosetted
• Leaves do not develop necrotic spots
• Symptoms appear first on young leaves

Manganese

• Assists in chlorophyll synthesis
• Accelerates germination and maturity

Signs of deficiency:

• Yellowing between leaf veins
• Stems appear shortened or rosetted
• Leaves develop necrotic spots
• Symptoms appear first on young leaves

Molybdenum

• Aids in the use of nitrogen
• Helps convert inorganic phosphorus to organic forms

Signs of deficiency:

• Mottling and interveinal chlorosis
• Plant may show overall chlorosis
• Leaves may curl or cup

Zinc

• Essential for several metabolic reactions, critical to early growth stages
• Aids in protein synthesis and growth regulation

Signs of deficiency:

• Yellowing between leaf veins
• Stems appear shortened or rosette
• Symptoms appear first on young leaves

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The National Garden Bureau chose 2015 as the year of the sweet pepper. The sweet pepper is also a nutritional powerhouse, a serving of the most popular type in the USA, the sweet bell, contains more vitamin C than the average orange, a generous amount of vitamin E and many antioxidants with only 29 calories. Peppers have high nutrient levels at any stage but are the most beneficial when eaten fully ripe.

Nomenclature
Sweet bell peppers are a cultivar of Capsicum annuum. Non-pungent banana peppers, sweet jalapenos and sweet cherries are also members of Capsicum annuum. Currently capsicum includes at least 25 species, four of which are domesticated. Sweet peppers are called sweet because they do not produce capsaicin–a chemical that causes a “burning” sensation when hot peppers are consumed. Sweet peppers lack capsaicin due to a recessive form of a gene that eliminates capsaicin and, consequently, the “hot” taste usually associated with the rest of the capsicum genus.

How to Grow
Starting seeds indoors in a warm spot about 8 weeks before the last frost date. Pepper plants can suffer from transplant shock so planting them in a biodegradable container that can go right into the garden later. The soil must be warm (at least 75 degrees) and damp, and don’t transplant until days are at least 65 degrees and nights are above 55.

It is better to buy younger plants that have not yet flowered when possible. Older plants can become stunted and root-bound in the tiny starter containers and will not transplant as well as smaller, younger plants. Plants can sometimes become stressed in some garden centers. Choosing a garden center that cares for its plants and waters regularly is important. Don’t leave new plants in a hot car or truck bed for any longer than you need to. The best technique is to ready the soil and area in advance in order to get the plants in the ground quickly. Late afternoon planting causes the least amount of stress to young pepper plants giving them a night to adjust before they need to survive the first day of sun.

Peppers like a sunny spot. They grow best in a location where plants from the same family have not recently grown–crop rotation is important for peppers (and tomatoes and eggplants). Soil should be loose and amended with compost or a vegetable soil mix from the garden center. Introduce seedlings to the garden gradually and transplant during mild weather or in the late afternoon if possible. Transplant shock can slow the maturity of the plant and affect fruit quality and quantity.

If planting in rows, set peppers 12-18 inches apart in 24-inch wide beds. If planting in squares or in flowerbeds etc., allow 12-18 inches of space around each plant. Fertilize about every two weeks, especially the plants become pale. Stop fertilizing once the plant blooms so that it can put its energy into fruit set. Pepper plants prefer full sun, but if it’s a very warm area, look for varieties that have “good coverage” of fruit. A full leaf canopy will prevent fruit from sunscald. Scalded fruit, though less attractive, are still edible and taste the same.

Plants will continue to bloom and set fruit until the first frost. If temperatures are above 85 degrees, or very cool, flower set and fruiting may slow down. Keep the plants watered and wait out the weather–they often will rebound if conditions improve. At the end of the season, cut down and remove plants and add mulch or plant a cover crop for the next year.

Harvest
Sweet peppers can be harvested at any stage of maturity. Less mature green peppers will generally be green or pale yellow, smaller, crunchy, and have thin walls and a slightly tart flavor. A benefit of harvesting early is that it triggers the plants to produce more fruit. Mature peppers will change color, have thicker walls, and a mild sweet flavor.

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